🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.